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BTMS-50
INCI Name: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol
CAS Numbers:
Behentrimonium Methosulfate: 81646-13-1
Cetyl Alcohol: 36653-82-4
Butylene Glycol: 107-88-0
Type: Cationic conditioning emulsifier
Active Content: ~50% Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Charge Type: Cationic (positively charged)
BTMS-50 is a cationic emulsifying wax primarily used in hair conditioners, masks, and leave-in products, as well as skin creams, butters, and scrubs that require conditioning properties. It contains 50% active Behentrimonium Methosulfate, a mild, plant-derived quaternary ammonium compound known for its excellent conditioning, detangling, and emulsifying abilities.
This ingredient is valued for creating rich, creamy emulsions with a silky, powdery afterfeel, and is especially effective on damaged, dry, or textured hair.
Functions and Benefits
Primary Emulsifier: Effective for oil-in-water emulsions, particularly those with high oil content.
Conditioning Agent: Deposits a thin cationic film on hair and skin for softness and manageability.
Detangler: Smooths hair cuticle and improves comb-through performance, especially in wet combing.
Thickener / Bodying Agent: Contributes to the viscosity and stability of emulsions.
Mildness: Suitable for sensitive skin and scalp; low irritation potential compared to other quats.
Common Applications
Rinse-off hair conditioners
Leave-in conditioners and detangling sprays
Deep conditioning hair masks
Emulsified body butters and scrubs
Skin-conditioning creams and lotions
Shaving creams and aftershave balms
Physical & Chemical Properties
Property | Specification |
Appearance | White, waxy pastilles or pellets |
Odor | Mild to neutral |
Melting Point | ~55–60°C (131–140°F) |
Solubility | Oil-soluble (must be heated to melt) |
pH Compatibility | Best used in formulations with pH 4–7 |
Charge Type | Cationic |
Advantages Over BTMS-25
Comparison Factor | BTMS-25 | BTMS-50 |
Active Conditioning Agent | ~25% | ~50% |
Thickening Agent | Cetearyl Alcohol | Cetyl Alcohol (lighter feel) |
Emulsifying Strength | Moderate | Strong |
Conditioning Power | Mild | More intense |
Usage Rate | 3–7% | 1.5–5% |
Functional Substitutes for BTMS-50
Use Case | Substitute | Notes |
Conditioning + Emulsification | BTMS-25 | Use at ~30–40% higher rate to match conditioning; texture will be creamier. |
Natural/Green Alternative | Varisoft EQ 65 (Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate) | Biodegradable, eco-cert approved; slightly different sensory. |
Separate Emulsifier + Conditioner | Emulsifying Wax NF + Polyquaternium-7 | Requires formulation balancing; lacks BTMS’s elegant all-in-one feel. |
Stronger Cationic Conditioner | Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride | Potent but may be more irritating and require neutralization. |
Palm-Free Alternative | Conditioning Emulsifier ECO, Brassica-based blends | Check source certifications and melt behavior. |
🌱 Sustainability & Vegan Options
Vegan & Cruelty-Free: Plant-derived quaternary ammonium compound, often from rapeseed oil.
Palm-Free Options: Available from some suppliers—verify with supplier documentation.
Biodegradability: More environmentally friendly than older cationic surfactants like quaterniums or chlorides.
Considerations
Cationic Charge: Incompatible with high levels of anionic ingredients (like SLS, SCI) without emulsifier support.
Not Suitable for Clear Products: Like all waxy emulsifiers, it creates opaque emulsions.
Melt-Blend Required: Must be melted thoroughly and blended during the heated phase for best performance.
BTMS-50 is a versatile, high-performance conditioning emulsifier ideal for luxurious hair and body care products. Its unique combination of conditioning, emulsifying, and thickening power makes it a go-to ingredient for formulators seeking soft, silky textures and rinse-off performance, all with excellent skin compatibility.