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BTMS-50

Cationic emulsifying wax

BTMS-50

INCI Name: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol

CAS Numbers:

  • Behentrimonium Methosulfate: 81646-13-1

  • Cetyl Alcohol: 36653-82-4

  • Butylene Glycol: 107-88-0

Type: Cationic conditioning emulsifier

Active Content: ~50% Behentrimonium Methosulfate

Charge Type: Cationic (positively charged)



BTMS-50 is a cationic emulsifying wax primarily used in hair conditioners, masks, and leave-in products, as well as skin creams, butters, and scrubs that require conditioning properties. It contains 50% active Behentrimonium Methosulfate, a mild, plant-derived quaternary ammonium compound known for its excellent conditioning, detangling, and emulsifying abilities.


This ingredient is valued for creating rich, creamy emulsions with a silky, powdery afterfeel, and is especially effective on damaged, dry, or textured hair.


Functions and Benefits

  • Primary Emulsifier: Effective for oil-in-water emulsions, particularly those with high oil content.

  • Conditioning Agent: Deposits a thin cationic film on hair and skin for softness and manageability.

  • Detangler: Smooths hair cuticle and improves comb-through performance, especially in wet combing.

  • Thickener / Bodying Agent: Contributes to the viscosity and stability of emulsions.

  • Mildness: Suitable for sensitive skin and scalp; low irritation potential compared to other quats.


Common Applications

  • Rinse-off hair conditioners

  • Leave-in conditioners and detangling sprays

  • Deep conditioning hair masks

  • Emulsified body butters and scrubs

  • Skin-conditioning creams and lotions

  • Shaving creams and aftershave balms


Physical & Chemical Properties

Property

Specification

Appearance

White, waxy pastilles or pellets

Odor

Mild to neutral

Melting Point

~55–60°C (131–140°F)

Solubility

Oil-soluble (must be heated to melt)

pH Compatibility

Best used in formulations with pH 4–7

Charge Type

Cationic

 Advantages Over BTMS-25

Comparison Factor

BTMS-25

BTMS-50

Active Conditioning Agent

~25%

~50%

Thickening Agent

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetyl Alcohol (lighter feel)

Emulsifying Strength

Moderate

Strong

Conditioning Power

Mild

More intense

Usage Rate

3–7%

1.5–5%


 Functional Substitutes for BTMS-50

Use Case

Substitute

Notes

Conditioning + Emulsification

BTMS-25

Use at ~30–40% higher rate to match conditioning; texture will be creamier.

Natural/Green Alternative

Varisoft EQ 65 (Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate)

Biodegradable, eco-cert approved; slightly different sensory.

Separate Emulsifier + Conditioner

Emulsifying Wax NF + Polyquaternium-7

Requires formulation balancing; lacks BTMS’s elegant all-in-one feel.

Stronger Cationic Conditioner

Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride

Potent but may be more irritating and require neutralization.

Palm-Free Alternative

Conditioning Emulsifier ECO, Brassica-based blends

Check source certifications and melt behavior.


🌱 Sustainability & Vegan Options

  • Vegan & Cruelty-Free: Plant-derived quaternary ammonium compound, often from rapeseed oil.

  • Palm-Free Options: Available from some suppliers—verify with supplier documentation.

  • Biodegradability: More environmentally friendly than older cationic surfactants like quaterniums or chlorides.


Considerations

  • Cationic Charge: Incompatible with high levels of anionic ingredients (like SLS, SCI) without emulsifier support.

  • Not Suitable for Clear Products: Like all waxy emulsifiers, it creates opaque emulsions.

  • Melt-Blend Required: Must be melted thoroughly and blended during the heated phase for best performance.


BTMS-50 is a versatile, high-performance conditioning emulsifier ideal for luxurious hair and body care products. Its unique combination of conditioning, emulsifying, and thickening power makes it a go-to ingredient for formulators seeking soft, silky textures and rinse-off performance, all with excellent skin compatibility.

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Canadian Made
Tammy Bigger CAHP
Biggar.Co
Stoney Creek, Ontario, Canada
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Disclaimer: The information provided throughout this site is for educational purposes only and is not to be regarded as substitute for professional medical advice and should not be relied on as health or personal advice. The information provided is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. Always seek the guidance of your qualified health professional with any questions you may have regarding your health or a medical condition.

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