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INCI Name: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol
Typical Composition: ~25% active Behentrimonium Methosulfate, ~75% Cetearyl Alcohol
CAS Numbers: 81646-13-1
Type: Cationic emulsifier, conditioning agent
BTMS-25 is a mild, conditioning emulsifier widely used in hair and skin care formulations. It is known for delivering a light, powdery feel, excellent detangling, and non-greasy conditioning, especially in rinse-off products like conditioners and cleansing balms.
Its primary active ingredient, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, is a quaternary ammonium compound derived from rapeseed oil. BTMS-25 is milder than traditional quats and ideal for sensitive skin and scalp.
Functions and Applications
Emulsifier: Works well for oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, particularly in conditioners, lotions, and creams.
Conditioning Agent: Deposits cationic charge on hair and skin, reducing static and improving softness.
Detangler: Smooths hair cuticle and improves combability.
Mild Thickener: Contributes to viscosity due to its cetearyl alcohol content.
Common Uses
Rinse-off hair conditioners
Leave-in conditioners (at low usage)
Creamy body butters and balms
Skin conditioning lotions and emulsified scrubs
Mild cleansing balms and hair masks
Usage Guidelines
Property | Specification |
Typical Usage Rate | 1%–10% (commonly 3%–5%) |
Emulsion Type | Oil-in-water (O/W) |
Solubility | Oil phase (melt and blend) |
Melting Point | ~50–60°C (122–140°F) |
pH Range | Works best in pH 4–7 formulations |
Charge Type | Cationic (positively charged) |
🧪 Formulator Tips:
BTMS-50 can be used as a direct substitute but has a higher active content—adjust usage down ~20–30%.
If replacing with a non-cationic emulsifier, conditioning effects may need to be restored with an added polyquaternium or silicone (e.g., Dimethicone, Amodimethicone).
Some eco-alternatives may not perform well in hard water or may require chelating agents.
If your product relies heavily on detangling or slip, not all emulsifier-only substitutes will match performance.
Functional Substitutes for BTMS-25
Use Case | Common Alternatives | Notes |
Hair Conditioning / Detangling | BTMS-50, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride | BTMS-50 offers stronger conditioning (50% active); chlorides are stronger but may be more irritating. |
Emulsifier + Conditioning | Emulsifying Wax NF + Conditioning Quat (e.g. Polyquaternium-7) | Requires separate emulsifier + conditioner; less elegant, more mixing needed. |
Mild Skin Conditioning Emulsifier | Brassica Alcohol and Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (e.g. Olivem® or Varisoft EQ 65) | Biodegradable and palm-free; ideal for eco-conscious or natural brands. |
Palm-Free Cationic Emulsifier | Conditioning Emulsifier Eco, Varisoft EQ 65 | Great for natural, vegan formulations; test compatibility and sensory. |
Vegan Deep Conditioning Substitute | BTMS-50 (Plant-Based Source), Amodimethicone Emulsions | Ensure BTMS-50 is from plant-derived quats if formulating vegan. |
BTMS-25 vs. BTMS-50 Comparison Chart
Feature | BTMS-25 | BTMS-50 |
INCI Name | Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol | Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol |
Active Conditioning Agent | ~25% Behentrimonium Methosulfate | ~50% Behentrimonium Methosulfate |
Thickener Type | Contains Cetearyl Alcohol | Contains Cetyl Alcohol |
Emolliency / Slip | Light, soft, powdery feel | Richer, more conditioning, slightly waxy |
Conditioning Strength | Mild to moderate | Stronger (double the active quat) |
Typical Usage Rate | 3–7% | 1.5–5% |
Texture Impact | Creamy, soft texture | Creamy and firmer due to higher active and cetyl |
Irritation Potential | Very low | Still low, slightly more active compound |
Best Used In | Lightweight conditioners, lotions, scrubs | Deep conditioners, balms, thick creams |
Vegan & Palm-Free Options | Available (verify supplier) | Available (verify supplier) |
Formulation Adjustment Tips: Switching BTMS-25 ⇄ BTMS-50
Replacing BTMS-25 with BTMS-50:
Reduce usage rate by ~25–40% due to higher active quat.
Example: If your formula uses 5% BTMS-25, try ~3–3.5% BTMS-50.
Expect slightly more conditioning and thickening.
Watch texture: BTMS-50 gives a firmer end product due to cetyl alcohol.
May need to adjust liquids/oil phase slightly for balance.
Replacing BTMS-50 with BTMS-25:
Increase usage rate to achieve similar conditioning.
Example: Replace 3% BTMS-50 with ~4.5–5% BTMS-25.
Final texture may be softer or creamier due to less cetyl alcohol.
If needed, add 1–2% cetyl alcohol to replicate the texture of BTMS-50.
Example: Conditioner Formula Swap
Component | Original (BTMS-25) | Adjusted (BTMS-50) |
BTMS | 5% | 3.5% BTMS-50 |
Cetyl Alcohol (optional) | — | — (already in BTMS-50) |
Other Ingredients | No change | No change needed |